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Skin care ingredients explained

Understand the science behind skin care ingredients and how they affect different skin concerns.

Published: July 25, 2024 |7 minute read

Written by: Jessica Sebor

A person inspects their skin in the bathroom mirror.

The art of skin care is nothing new — humans have been applying various substances to try and improve their complexions for more than 10,000 years.1 Over the centuries, however, the science of skin care ingredients has progressed by leaps and bounds.

In recent years, there has been an advance in cosmetic science and new formulas that may reach deeper layers of the skin. Some can also help improve natural collagen production.2

A growing body of research also helps pinpoint which ingredients to use for different skin concerns, which can help you find products that may help with different skin types and needs. "Active ingredients are the key to how skin care products improve the skin," says Julia Tzu, MD, FAAD, founder of Wall Street Dermatology in New York City.3

Whether someone wants to decrease the appearance of fine lines or help manage uncomfortable breakouts, there's likely an effective ingredient for it. Remember: It's always best to discuss any new skin care products with a dermatologist first. But as a starting point, here's a look at some ingredients that may work well and where to find them.

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Exploring different skin care ingredients

First, there's no one "best skin care ingredient." Everyone's skin is unique. Instead, the best skin care ingredients are the ones that align with different skin goals. Lauren Eckert Ploch, MD, FAAD, a dermatologist in Augusta, GA, and Aiken, SC, says that different products work for different people.4 “I personalize a patient’s skin care routine based on their skin type and their personal skin concerns.”

Instead of looking for the “best,” select products formulated for specific skin types:5

  • Piel seca: coarse, flaky, scaly or itchy
  • Oily skin: shiny and greasy to the touch
  • Combination skin: dry in some parts and oily in others (like the nose and forehead)
  • Sensitive skin: reacts easily with stinging or redness after product use
  • Normal or clear skin: not overly oily, dry or sensitive6

Beyond skin type, consider any existing skin conditions and whether there are any specific issues to address:

  • Acné and breakouts
  • Hyperpigmentation and dark spots
  • Uneven or blotchy skin tone
  • Rough skin texture
  • Loose, slack skin
  • Wrinkles and fine lines
  • Piel seca y con picazón

For conditions like eczema or rosacea, speak to a dermatologist first. They can help with products that may work best for these concerns.

Most people only need a simple routine.7 “General skin care for teenagers and adults would include washing the face with a gentle cleanser and applying a moisturizer with sunscreen in the morning,” says A. Yasmine Kirkorian, MD, Chief, Division of Dermatology at Children's National Hospital in Washington, DC.8,9 “Anything beyond that is personal preference or determined through consulting with a health care professional by a person's underlying skin conditions.”10 The time of day the product is used can matter, too, so it’s important to learn about AM-PM skin care.

When building a routine, it’s important to look for products that contain ingredients formulated for specific needs. Dr. Ploch also recommends ensuring products are free of anything you don’t want. “It's very important to check the labels on skin care products because some ingredients can be irritating to people with sensitive skin,” she explains.11 Check with a dermatologist to uncover what these ingredients might be for you.

Key skin care ingredients and their benefits

Explore this list of popular skin care ingredients — in conjunction with a health care provider — to help find products that may work best for different skin concerns.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Can help with acne, textured skin and wrinkles.12

AHAs are a group of acids that include glicólico, lactic, malic, citric and tartaric acid.13 They act as a gentle peel that can help even the look of fine lines, smooth textured skin and improve the appearance of acne.14

Skin care products with AHAs to consider:

Benzoyl peroxide

Can help with acne.15

Benzoyl peroxide is available in both over-the-counter and prescription formulations to help combat acne.16 It works as an antiseptic to reduce breakout-causing bacteria on the skin.17

Skin care products with benzoyl peroxide to consider:

Ceramide lipids

Can help with dry skin and reducing the appearance of aging.18,19

Ceramide lipids help create a barrier that protects the skin from dehydration and environmental damage.20 “The ceramide lipid is the most abundant lipid in the outer layer of our skin,” explains Dr. Ploch.21 “As we age, we become deficient in ceramide lipids, so it's important to restore that lipid barrier through the use of ceramide-containing products.”22

Skin care products to consider:

Hyaluronic acid

Can help with dry skin and fine lines.23

“Hyaluronic acid helps keep the skin plump and dewy,” says Dr. Tzu.24 Hyaluronic acid is a molecule found naturally deep within the skin whose presence decreases as we age.25 Research has found that topical products containing ácido hialurónico can help increase skin’s moisture content, help decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and help improve the look of textured skin.26

Skin care products with hyaluronic acid to consider:

Niacinamida

Can help with acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea and reducing the appearance of aging.27

Niacinamida is a form of vitamin B3 that helps skin build the protein keratin, which helps promote a smoother, healthier-looking complexion.28

Skin care products with niacinamide to consider:

Peptides

Can help with wrinkles, loose skin and reducing the appearance of aging29

These short-chain amino acids occur naturally within the skin but also can be made in a laboratory and formulated in topical serums and creams.30 Studies have found that peptides can significantly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.31 Look for peptides when concerned about skin laxity caused by sun damage.32

Skin care products with peptides to consider:

Retinols

Can help with acne, fine lines and hyperpigmentation.33

A form of vitamin A, retinoids help unclog pores to improve acne and increase cell growth in the skin.34 "Retinols are key for anti-aging purposes," says Dr. Tzu. They are a type of retinoid. "They increase firmness of skin, decrease fine lines and wrinkles and can even help with discoloration and texture."35 All retinoids should be avoided during pregnancy.36

Skin care products with retinoids to consider:

Salicylic acid

Can help with acne.

An effective over-the-counter product for acne, ácido salicílico works by helping to unclog pores while reducing the swelling and redness of existing pimples.37 It’s important to see a dermatologist when suffering from a skin condition.38

Products with salicylic acid to consider:

Vitamina C

Can help with hyperpigmentation and reducing the appearance of aging.39

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant with the ability to help prevent free-radical damage when used with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Also known as ascorbic acid, it's used to reduce the look of dark spots, redness and wrinkles.40.41 Dermatologists often recommend applying vitamin C products in the morning before sunscreen.42

Skin care products with vitamin C to consider:

Zinc oxide

Can help with sun protection and preventing the appearance of aging.43

Often used to power mineral sunscreens, zinc oxide is a physical filter that helps protect skin from the sun.44 “My favorite ingredient is zinc oxide,” says Dr. Ploch. “It's a great anti-inflammatory and it protects our skin from UVA and UVB ultraviolet radiation damage on a daily basis.”45

Skin care products with zinc oxide to consider:

Este contenido es solo para fines informativos y no constituye un asesoramiento médico. Consult your health care provider before taking any vitamins or supplements and prior to beginning or changing any health care practices.